Egyptian Jewelry and Cartouche

As Egypt is the cradle of civilization, no doubt thatengraved, incised and chased work. The
it is also the cradle of the arts and the home ofcombinations of layers of gold plates, together
craftsmanship. Personal ornaments appear towith colored stones were also present. Gold was
have been among the very first objects on whichalso widely used in gilding other less precious
the invention and ingenuity of man werematerials such as wood and stone. Cloisonné
exercised. In the beginning, natural objects, suchand filigree were already known at that time. The
as small shells, dried berries, small perforatedcloisonné technique was used in pectorals
stones, feathers of variegated colors, wereand pendants. It created outlines of figures and
combined by stringing or tying together tosymbols with gold wires that were then soldered
ornament the head, neck, arms and legs, theto sheets of beaten gold and later inlaid with
fingers, and even the toes.colored stones or glass. Filigree, a delicate, lacelike
The earliest examples of Egyptian jewelry whichornamental work of gold or silver wire, was
have come down to us are those of the Premostly used in buckles and clasps of gold.
dynastic period (more than 3000 years B.C.),Granulation was the technique of creating various
where the Egyptians had been making beads anddesigns by soldering very tiny gold balls to the
ornaments of semi precious stones such assurface of gold sheets. The stones used in the
amethyst, lapis lazuli, cornelian, Quartz, Garnet,inlays were considered to have magical properties
Turquoise , and other objects. They also usedbased on their color.
man made materials such as glazed objects andEgyptian craftsmen:
colored glass imitating semi precious stones. MostThe standard of work of the Egyptian goldsmiths
of the materials used in making these beads werewas high from the beginning of the pharaonic age.
chosen for their color symbolization or amuletCraftsmen in ancient Egypt were usually trained
significance especially the ones used in makingand skilled laborers. They were often
funerary jewelry, as they had a religious andwell-respected in the community and had a
magical significance in the Egyptian ancient worldcomfortable lifestyle. Yet every craftsman's
by protecting the wearer from evil. Turquoise forlifestyle and social standing depended on the
example was a symbol of fertility, good luck, andquality of his skills and experience. Most craftsmen
as protection from the evil eye.worked in temple workshops or palace
So as it appears, ancient Egyptians wore variousworkshops, for gold and silver jewelry were
shapes and kinds of jewelry, some of which are:mostly reserved for the use of the gods, the
- Bracelets and Bangles: these ornaments oftenkings and, to a lesser extent, the rich and
came in matching sets. Ancient Egyptians alsopowerful. Very few Egyptian commoners
used the same term for describing anklets.possessed any gold jewelry.
- Finger rings: its earliest form was as simple asThe art of jewelry making reached its peak in the
rings made of stone. Later, rings were made ofMiddle Kingdom, when Egyptians mastered the
small strings of beads, gold-foil bands and wires oftechnical methods and accuracy in making pieces
copper or silver closed by twisting the endsof jewelry. During the New Kingdom, this art
together.flourished in an unprecedented way because of
- Amulets of semi-precious stones: these wereregular missions to the Eastern Desert and Nubia
charms worn by the living or placed on a mummyto extract metals.
to ward off evil spirits or bring good luck.Famous discoveries:
- Cartouches: These were elliptical symbolsIt is to the tombs of ancient people that we must
encircling the inscribed birth and coronation nameslook for evidence of the early existence of
of the king. They were usually worn as pendants.Egyptian jewelry. The jewelry of the ancient
- Pectorals: These are large pieces of jewelry,Egyptians has been preserved for us in their
usually in the form of trapezoids, worn on thetombs, sometimes in, and sometimes near the
chest.sarcophagi which contained the embalmed bodies
- Necklaces: These were widely used amongof the wearers. This is due to the ancient
wealthy people, and were usually made ofEgyptian funerary beliefs that required that the
precious metals such as gold and silver, andmummified body should be wearing the finest
decorated with colored glass beads andjewelry. A large number of such jewelry was
semi-precious stones.found on the mummies; for example, wreaths,
- Earrings: Theses were worn by both men andcrowns, or hair bands. On the head or wig, they
women.fixed different types of ornaments, such as small
- Crowns: These were reserved for royalty. Theyroses, golden bands, and some simple bands of
were made of gold or silver and decorated withjewelry. There were also different types of belts,
semi-precious stones.including waist belts and belts with hanging vertical
- Belts: These included waist belts and belts withstraps ornamented with colored beads. Other
hanging vertical straps ornamented with coloredtypes of jewelry included earrings, bracelets,
beads. They were usually found in tombs.anklets, rings, and necklaces.
- Vests: This kind of jewelry is only found inThe earliest known example of Egyptian jewelry
ancient Egyptian jewelry. It was worn around thegoes back to the first dynasty. It is a set of four
chest. It was usually made of gold or ofbracelets found in the tomb of Zer at Abydos .
gold-plated metal. Even when it was made of aBy the Twelfth Dynasty the jeweler's skill had
cheap material, it was painted yellow to give aattained something as near perfection as is
golden impression.possible in an imperfect world. For technical skill,
Gold and silver Egyptian jewelry:delicacy of handling and for the love of nature
The real start of Egyptian jewelry was whenwhich the design reveals there is nothing more
ancient Egyptians had access to precious metals,fascinating than the two coronets of Khnemit,
for even in ancient times, Egypt was envied forrepresenting floral garlands used at festivals and
its underground treasures. At first they got theseincluding most of the flowers and fruits grown in
metals from the Eastern Desert and Nubia , laterEgyptian gardens
too as tribute and spoils of war from Syria andOne of the best known examples of the
the north. Mining was often carried out bymagnificence of Egyptian jewelry is the jewelry of
convicts under military control. This was aTutankhamen's time (18 th dynasty). Its treasures
dangerous endeavor from which many of theinclude gold filigree and granulated gold-work, and
laborers probably never returned.you hardly know what, amid such splendors, to
Up until the Middle Kingdom, silver was consideredadmire most. The gold mask of the adolescent
as valuable to the Egyptians as gold, but afterking, the headdress and collar inlaid with colored
that time frame, Egyptians seem to haveglass, or the smaller specimens of the ancient
become fanatical over gold. Egypt was richer injewelers' art including the pectoral ornaments inlaid
gold than any other country of the region.background of cloisonné. Tutankhamun's
Statues, furniture, vessels and jewelry, above allcollection is the most complete royal treasure
in the royal household and the temples, wereever discovered.
often created from these precious metals.jewelryIf we have to speak of the production of jewelry
working techniques:as a modern art industry, we should say that
The Egyptians knew two kinds of bonding metals:nowadays, the craftsman of the twentieth
welding and soldering. As early as the Middlecentury follows methods and traditions which his
Kingdom little pieces of jewelry were weldeddistant ancestors would recognize and understand,
together. Soldering was known since the 4thas these techniques come down to us from very
dynasty at least. The work of Egyptian gold andfar days.
silversmiths also included Hammered work,