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Egyptian Jewelry and Cartouche

As Egypt is the cradle of civilization, nowere welded together. Soldering was known
doubt that it is also the cradle of thesince the 4th dynasty at least. The work of
arts and the home of craftsmanship. PersonalEgyptian gold and silversmiths also
ornaments appear to have been among theincluded Hammered work, engraved, incised and
very first objects on which the invention andchased work. The combinations of layers of
ingenuity of man were exercised. In thegold plates, together with colored stones
beginning, natural objects, such as smallwere also present. Gold was also widely
shells, dried berries, small perforatedused in gilding other less precious materials
stones, feathers of variegated colors, weresuch as wood and stone. Cloisonné and
combined by stringing or tying together tofiligree were already known at that time. The
ornament the head, neck, arms and legs, thecloisonné technique was used in
fingers,  and  even  the  toes.pectorals and pendants. It created outlines
of figures and symbols with gold wires that
The earliest examples of Egyptian jewelrywere then soldered to sheets of beaten gold
which have come down to us are those of theand later inlaid with colored stones or
Pre dynastic period (more than 3000 yearsglass. Filigree, a delicate, lacelike
B.C.), where the Egyptians had been makingornamental work of gold or silver wire, was
beads and ornaments of semi precious stonesmostly used in buckles and clasps of gold.
such as amethyst, lapis lazuli, cornelian,Granulation was the technique of creating
Quartz, Garnet, Turquoise , and othervarious designs by soldering very tiny gold
objects. They also used man made materialsballs to the surface of gold sheets. The
such as glazed objects and colored glassstones used in the inlays were considered
imitating semi precious stones. Most of theto have magical properties based on their
materials used in making these beads werecolor.
chosen for their color symbolization or
amulet significance especially the ones usedEgyptian  craftsmen:
in making funerary jewelry, as they had a
religious and magical significance in theThe standard of work of the Egyptian
Egyptian ancient world by protecting thegoldsmiths was high from the beginning of the
wearer from evil. Turquoise for example waspharaonic age. Craftsmen in ancient Egypt
a symbol of fertility, good luck, and aswere usually trained and skilled laborers.
protection  from  the  evil  eye.They were often well-respected in the
community and had a comfortable lifestyle.
So as it appears, ancient Egyptians woreYet every craftsman's lifestyle and social
various shapes and kinds of jewelry, somestanding depended on the quality of his
of  which  are:skills and experience. Most craftsmen
worked in temple workshops or palace
- Bracelets and Bangles: these ornamentsworkshops, for gold and silver jewelry were
often came in matching sets. Ancientmostly reserved for the use of the gods, the
Egyptians also used the same term forkings and, to a lesser extent, the rich and
describing  anklets.powerful. Very few Egyptian commoners
possessed  any  gold  jewelry.
- Finger rings: its earliest form was as
simple as rings made of stone. Later, ringsThe art of jewelry making reached its peak
were made of small strings of beads,in the Middle Kingdom, when Egyptians
gold-foil bands and wires of copper ormastered the technical methods and accuracy
silver  closed by twisting the ends together.in making pieces of jewelry. During the New
Kingdom, this art flourished in an
- Amulets of semi-precious stones: these wereunprecedented way because of regular missions
charms worn by the living or placed on ato the Eastern Desert and Nubia to extract
mummy to ward off evil spirits or bring goodmetals.
luck.
Famous  discoveries:
- Cartouches: These were elliptical symbols
encircling the inscribed birth andIt is to the tombs of ancient people that we
coronation names of the king. They weremust look for evidence of the early
usually  worn  as pendants.existence of Egyptian jewelry. The jewelry of
the ancient Egyptians has been preserved
- Pectorals: These are large pieces offor us in their tombs, sometimes in, and
jewelry, usually in the form of trapezoids,sometimes near the sarcophagi which
worn  on  the  chest.contained the embalmed bodies of the wearers.
This is due to the ancient Egyptian
- Necklaces: These were widely used amongfunerary beliefs that required that the
wealthy people, and were usually made ofmummified body should be wearing the finest
precious metals such as gold and silver, andjewelry. A large number of such jewelry was
decorated with colored glass beads andfound on the mummies; for example, wreaths,
semi-precious  stones.crowns, or hair bands. On the head or wig,
they fixed different types of ornaments, such
- Earrings: Theses were worn by both men andas small roses, golden bands, and some
women.simple bands of jewelry. There were also
different types of belts, including waist
- Crowns: These were reserved for royalty.belts and belts with hanging vertical straps
They were made of gold or silver andornamented with colored beads. Other types
decorated  with  semi-precious  stones.of jewelry included earrings, bracelets,
anklets,  rings,  and  necklaces.
- Belts: These included waist belts and belts
with hanging vertical straps ornamentedThe earliest known example of Egyptian
with colored beads. They were usually foundjewelry goes back to the first dynasty. It is
in  tombs.a set of four bracelets found in the tomb
of Zer at Abydos . By the Twelfth Dynasty the
- Vests: This kind of jewelry is only foundjeweler's skill had attained something as
in ancient Egyptian jewelry. It was wornnear perfection as is possible in an
around the chest. It was usually made of goldimperfect world. For technical skill,
or of gold-plated metal. Even when it wasdelicacy of handling and for the love of
made of a cheap material, it was paintednature which the design reveals there is
yellow  to  give  a  golden  impression.nothing more fascinating than the two
coronets of Khnemit, representing floral
Gold  and  silver  Egyptian jewelry:garlands used at festivals and including most
of the flowers and fruits grown in Egyptian
The real start of Egyptian jewelry was whengardens
ancient Egyptians had access to precious
metals, for even in ancient times, Egypt wasOne of the best known examples of the
envied for its underground treasures. Atmagnificence of Egyptian jewelry is the
first they got these metals from thejewelry of Tutankhamen's time (18 th
Eastern Desert and Nubia , later too asdynasty). Its treasures include gold filigree
tribute and spoils of war from Syria andand granulated gold-work, and you hardly
the north. Mining was often carried out byknow what, amid such splendors, to admire
convicts under military control. This wasmost. The gold mask of the adolescent king,
a dangerous endeavor from which many of thethe headdress and collar inlaid with colored
laborers  probably  never returned.glass, or the smaller specimens of the
ancient jewelers' art including the
Up until the Middle Kingdom, silver waspectoral ornaments inlaid background of
considered as valuable to the Egyptians ascloisonné. Tutankhamun's collection is
gold, but after that time frame, Egyptiansthe most complete royal treasure ever
seem to have become fanatical over gold.discovered.
Egypt was richer in gold than any other
country of the region. Statues, furniture,If we have to speak of the production of
vessels and jewelry, above all in the royaljewelry as a modern art industry, we should
household and the temples, were often createdsay that nowadays, the craftsman of the
from these precious metals.jewelry workingtwentieth century follows methods and
techniques:traditions which his distant ancestors
would recognize and understand, as these
The Egyptians knew two kinds of bondingtechniques come down to us from very far
metals: welding and soldering. As early asdays.
the Middle Kingdom little pieces of jewelry



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