The Brilliant Story of Lace

There was wool stitching with colorful wools fromof the many varieties, but only the barest outline
famous paintings and on Biblical subjects in theis attempted; the names of the many patterns
nineteenth. And there were beadworks as welland the stitches employed would alone fill a book.
which is an allied to embroidery and very popularHand-made lace is divided into two distinct types:
in the seventeenth century during the reign ofthat made with the needle, known as needlepoint;
Queen Victoria. And lace was one the subject ofand that made with bobbins on a cushion, known
interest in the earlier days.as pillow. Basically, needlepoint lace is made from
In the nineteenth century there was a fashion forone single continuous thread, and pillow lace from
working brilliantly colored pictures in wool; manya number. In the latter, each thread is wound
were after famous paintings, but the greaterconveniently on a bobbin made of wood or bone,
numbers were of Biblical subjects. They areoften the subject of 'folk' decoration, and many
known as Berlin woodwork, for both patterns andare hung at one end with a bunch of colored glass
materials were prepared and exported frombeads.
Prussia. They were sewn with thick wool and inIn the sixteenth century lace making was a
big stitches; many were of large size and mustflourishing art, pattern books began to appear,
have taken a considerable time to finish.and both Venice and Flanders were early seats of
Beadwork is allied to embroidery, and was usedactivity. Stimulus was provided by fashion
on its own as well as in conjunction with work indecreeing that lace should be worn by both
wool and silk. It was widely popular in thesexes, and contemporary paintings prove its
seventeenth century, and revived during the reignpopularity.
of Queen Victoria when it was used often forThe most renowned needlepoint laces were made
making banners for fire screens and panels forat Alencon and Argentan, and at Brussels. It is
covering footstools.stated that the net forming the background in
In other parts of Europe styles similar to those ofsome of the finer Alencon pieces was composed
England were followed, but with local variations inof hexagons with sides one-tenth of an inch long,
both designs and materials. Similarly, in Americathese sides being 'overcast with some nine or ten
the inhabitants followed the styles that they, orbuttonhole stitches'.
their forbears, had followed before they reachedPillow lace was made also in Venice and Flanders,
that land. Much of the work is indistinguishableand in other countries. In England, imports from
from European, but samplers exist with names ofEurope threatened the native industry, and
individuals and cities that make their identificationprohibition of foreign work was followed by the
certain.immigration of some of the workers themselves.
Chinese embroiderers favored silk, which they hadEnglish pillow lace was produced in several places,
in the first place introduced into the West, ofHoniton in Devonshire being the most famous.
which the production was pursued with zeal. FineOther centres of lesser importance were:
embroidery was used on robes, in many instancesBuckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, Northamptonshire,
on both sides of the fabric with the thread-endsWiltshire, Dorset and Suffolk. Lace was made also
care- fully concealed. It was used also with greatin Ireland, principally in the nineteenth century.
effect in the form of pictures. The Japanese didMore than the lace there was more interest
similar work.shown on the materials use in its making. The
Lacetwo types of lace such needlepoint and pillow are
Lace was once studied eagerly and extensively,made with the same types of threads but one
but today only comparatively few collectors takewith hands and the other bobbin made of wood
notice of it. There is probably more interestor bone. This lace ahs traveled a long way in
shown in the equipment used in its makingmaking decorative works of our clothes and other
(pillow-lace bobbins, in particular) than in thedress materials, etc.
finished material. A brief mention is made of some