| Do you know how to sew a hem? It's pretty | | | | So for light filmy fabrics use a very fine needle, a |
| simple, and the following instructions will teach you | | | | regular sized needle for ordinary fabrics, and a |
| how to sew a neat, almost invisible, hem every | | | | larger more robust needle for heavier fabrics. |
| time. | | | | To see whether you have the right needle, run it |
| To start with, iron flat that area of the fabric you | | | | through your material once without any thread in |
| need to hem. Now we need to turn up and pin | | | | it. If the hole you create with the needle closes up |
| the hem. The easiest way to do this is on a flat | | | | or disappears by itself, you've got the right |
| surface, such as a table. Your fabric should have | | | | needle. If you can see the hole afterwards, try a |
| the wrong side facing you. | | | | smaller needle. |
| I know most patterns allow for 5/8" for a hem, | | | | Now – to sew! |
| but I allow a little more to ensure the hem is not | | | | Thread your needle, and leave the short end of |
| too bulky. | | | | thread about 20cm long or 8". (Note: I never sew |
| Start with a small section of the fabric and turn | | | | with the thread doubled unless I am sewing on a |
| over about 1/2cm or ¼". Now fold over again | | | | button). Tie a knot in the long end of the thread. |
| another 1½cm or ½". Pin this in place. Because | | | | I find it easiest to sew with the fabric on my lap |
| I am right handed, I now move to the left about | | | | (or the part to be sewn on my lap). |
| 6cm or 2" and do the same again (if you're left | | | | The fabric should be wrong side up, with the |
| handed, move to the right). Continue in this way | | | | pinned hem closest to you. Pick a starting point (a |
| until you have pinned the entire hem. | | | | side seam is usually good), and insert the needle |
| Now check and make sure that the hem is | | | | through the body of the fabric, as close to the |
| straight, with no bulky sections or gathers. If | | | | top of the hem as you can, and without piercing |
| there are, just rework that section of the fabric | | | | through to the right side of the fabric (that's why |
| until it is more even. Unpin, redo your folding and | | | | I usually start on a side seam). Now pierce the |
| re-pin. | | | | needle through the top of the hem by placing the |
| At this point, you can turn the fabric back to the | | | | tip of the needle slightly underneath the top of |
| right side and iron it, but this isn't necessary unless | | | | the hem and bringing it up through the outer part |
| your fabric is particularly slippery (like satin or | | | | of the hem. You can see an image here ( |
| jersey). | | | | Now place the needle about 1cm or ½" to the |
| Next, we need to get together our sewing kit. | | | | left (or to the right for left handers) **, as close |
| The most critical thing to ensure that your hem is | | | | to the top of the hem as possible, and insert |
| almost invisible is to choose the right thread for | | | | through several fibres of the fabric (try not to go |
| your fabric. If your fabric is very light, filmy, or | | | | all the way through to the other side of the |
| delicate (such as chiffon, satin, jersey, | | | | fabric). Again, place the tip of the needle under |
| cheesecloth, etc) then choose a very light nylon | | | | the top of the hem and insert through and out to |
| thread. | | | | the outer part of the hem. Repeat this until you |
| If your fabric is a medium weight (such as cotton, | | | | are back where you started. |
| linen, polyester, etc) then use a regular nylon | | | | ** How far apart you do the stitches depends on |
| thread. | | | | several factors such as how robust the hem |
| And if your fabric is thick, heavy or bulky (such | | | | needs to be (the more wear and tear, the closer |
| as denim, canvas, polar fleece, etc) then consider | | | | the stitches need to be), the weight of the fabric |
| using a heavier cotton thread. | | | | (generally lighter fabrics can have stitches farther |
| Once you have decided on the best type of | | | | apart than heavier fabrics) and whereabouts on |
| thread to use, you must choose the right colour. | | | | the garment the hem is (if fingers or toes are |
| If you can get a perfect shade match, well and | | | | likely to get caught in the hem when putting it on, |
| good. If not, go for one slightly lighter than your | | | | the stitches should be closer together). |
| fabric rather than darker, as this is less likely to | | | | To finish off the hem, sew 2 stitches one on top |
| show. | | | | of the other, tie a knot in your thread, and you're |
| Your needle has to match the fabric and thread. | | | | done. Iron your hem (and admire)! |